Winding over the Jemez Mountains from Albuquerque toward Santa Fe, the 25 MIT alumni and guests who began tracing the evolution of the Manhattan Project on Thursday first dipped into earth sciences. Guided by a geologist, we stopped to see the Valles Caldera, the basin of a supervolcano that left a 10-mile-wide crater 1.2 million years old. The ancient violent eruptions that left more than 800 feet of pyroclastic flows were a telling kickoff for the MIT Alumni Travel Program tour that is exploring another violent eruption, the development and use of nuclear weapons at the end of WWII.
Prof. Gino Segre PhD '63 presents Physics 101
Soon we arrived at the La Fonda hotel in Santa Fe, chosen because it was a favorite gathering place of Robert Oppenheimer, the science director of the Manhattan Project, and his colleagues in the 20-month sprint to develop a nuclear weapon that would speed the end of WWII. The first evening included a festive dinner and a first talk by UPenn Physics Professor Gino Segre PhD ‘63 who explained how so many eminent European physicists wound up on the 7,000 ft mesa of Los Alamos. Story: Ellen Bradbury, our guide, told us that if a scientist got too drunk, a La Fonda bartender checked the guy into a room and took away his pants, so he couldn’t wander around, perhaps spilling secrets.
Next morning, the visit to the Los Alamos National Laboratory included a behind-the-fence tour of V-site only occasionally available to the public. We saw the simple wooden buildings, snuggled into berms (to reduce radiation in case of accident) that housed the technical development of uranium and plutonium bombs. Ellen, who grew up in Los Alamos where her father was a scientist and her father-in-law to be was director after Oppenheimer, got our group access to exclusive experiences including talks by Manhattan Project scientists and experts. The V-Site is and the Trinity test bomb site we will see on today, May 24, are only available to the public a few days of the year.
A replica of Fat Man, the first plutonium bomb.
On this trip, Entering the Atomic Age: The Manhattan Project, May 20-25, we are seeing history come alive in the places and artifacts of the story, learning about the science, and hearing first-person stories from people who worked and lived in Los Alamos during the Manhattan Project. Outside the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History, we saw aircraft designed to deliver nuclear weapons including a B-29, the type craft that dropped the world’s first atomic bomb on Hiroshima. We could practically thump the sides of replicas of that bomb, Little Boy, and Fat Man, the second bomb, at the Bradbury museum in Santa Fe.
The 1963 NBC White Paper, The Decision to Drop the Bomb, was never shown on TV because it was deemed inappropriate fare for a nation in mourning after the Kennedy asassination. In fact, it has never been show on TV, but we were able to see a rare copy. Though it and other sources, we came to a fresh understanding of the dreadful losses in the war, the political intrigues of the time, and the realization among the scientists and others of how monumental the new technology was. The decision to use these untried nuclear weapons was made in the waning days of the war, after Germany had surrendered and the death toll was already in the tens of millions. Europe was in ruins and Japan was being firebombed daily. Yet the Japanese military’s fierce resistance to surrender would have made an invasion costly—perhaps one million American lives and as many Japanese lives. America was looking for a way to give the Japanese emperor the incentive to overrule his military and make peace. The first bomb, a uranium gadget, was dropped Aug. 6 and still the Japanese refused to surrender. The second bomb, a plutonium bomb, was dropped Aug. 9 and the Japanese quickly surrendered. Although more than 100,000 Japanese died in the bombings, many believe that it stopped the war that had already taken 39 million lives.
Guide Ellen Bradbury describes how physicists were secretly delivered to Los Alamos.
Beyond the serious topics and the amazing technological effort involved, the troupe of alumni, guests, and friends are also sharing personal experiences throughout the educational journey. At a reception Friday for the travelers and local New Mexico alumni, Gino told the story of his awe of Manhattan Project leader Victor Weisskopf, an eminent physicist who became his professor at MIT. Later, they were both at CERN. Still later, Weisskopft became Gino’s brother-in-law. Suddenly a man whom Gino had considered a physics god, was sitting over the family table—and, boy, were the first conversations awkward. Then Gino invited the audience to share some of their experiences with their MIT faculty. Nearly a dozen voices—both travelers and local alumni—added stories. And the years that separated the alumni from their own student days suddenly disappeared.
Tomorrow: we are off to visit the Trinity site where the Fat Man bomb was tested.
Nancy DuVergne Smith
Read about the trip’s MIT connections in the first Slice of MIT post about the trip—and the final day visiting the Trinity test site.
Read about new work in MIT’s Nuclear Science and Engineering department including the 2009 update on the Future of Nuclear Power.
PS: Learn about upcoming MIT Alumni Travel Program trips.